Raging Bulls Lock Horns In UAE

"Hai" shouts the arena master. The bulls’ heads slam together, horns lock, bone grinds against bone.
The Spanish beast’s hooves dig into the dirt as it tries to gain an advantage, taut muscles clearly visible under its black hide. It snorts and grunts, foaming spittle flying from its clenched jaw, to force out that last bit of strength it needs to beat this large white Brahman.
You have to stay on your toes – a bull can easily kill a man with a single hit. Hamdan Bin Sultan, arena master
The black Spaniard’s hooves plough the dirt as it is pushed back by the overpowering Brahman. Its head is pushed down into the dirt, every blast of air from its flared nostrils spreading a cloud of dust. Pushed off balance with no hope of fighting back, the Spaniard breaks away, losing the contest.
The arena master grabs the Brahman’s reins as a score of men rush to help him pull the two beasts away.
This is just another Friday afternoon on Fujairah’s Corniche, one of the few places where you can still experience the traditional sport of Emirati-style bullfighting.
Unlike the Spanish corrida, this tradition pits bull against bull in a bloodless test of strength as they lock horns and wrestle until one of them turns tail and flees.
The bullfights attract crowds from as far away as Abu Dhabi and Ras Al Khaimah, as well as a few tourists. The square arena is surrounded by mounds of dirt which are also the seats. Some spectators prefer to drive up to the mounds and watch from the comfort of their cars.
The arena masters, acting as umpires, stand inches away from the locked horns. Armed with only a switch cane, their job is to entice the bulls to fight while making sure they don’t get tangled in their reins – and to keep the bulls away from the crowd.
"You have to stay on your toes – a bull can easily kill a man with a single hit," said Hamdan Bin Sultan, one of only two men brave enough to act as arena master in Fujairah.
"I picked up the sport from my father, spending most of my life with these animals. I feel comfortable being near them even in combat," he said.
Bin Sultan, a 28-year-old military officer, has been an arena master for ten years. He also owns and trains ten bulls. His fellow arena master, Mohammad Fares, has six.
"I have two kids, they are still young, but soon I hope to pass on to them what my father taught me," said Bin Sultan. "It’s a dying tradition and I want to keep it alive, but it’s up to God whether they have the affinity for it or not."
Bullfighting is not a poor man’s sport.
"It’ll be tough to find a good bull for less than Dh25,000," said Bin Sultan. "We spend a lot on training and a proper diet.
"It would be nice if the government would acknowledge and support this sport, or at least build us proper seating areas for the safety of the spectators. On occasion the bulls have been known to get loose and damage some of the cars surrounding the mounds – thankfully though no one has been hurt."
"Back when I was young, mnattah would only take place once a year on Nauroz [Persian New Year]," said Mohammad Khamis Al Sharri, who has been the announcer and commentator for the Fujairah mnattah for the last 25 years.
The 65-year-old takes pride in being the owner and trainer of seven bulls, including the current reigning champion, a large white and grey Brahman called Al Kaser (the Breaker).
"My father had a famous black Brahman bull called Al Khabeel [The Wild]," said Khadijah Mohammad, an Emirati grandmother. "Mnattah was a serious matter of pride; some trainers would resign if their bull lost.
"I remember when Al Khabeel would win; his trainer would ride on his back and parade him around Kalba. The bull’s head and back would be rubbed with a mixture of saffron, rose water and perfume that the women would prepare."
Al Sharri explained how to choose a good fighting bull: "You have to check the head and horns, make sure the shoulders are wide and the neck is well muscled.
"It is also important to check the tail, which can tell you about its health." Al Sharri said he spends between Dh30-Dh50 per day on each bull.
"To me the reputation is more important than the money. Some of the young people would sell the bull once it gains status just to make a quick profit. I wouldn’t sell until I’m sure it is past its prime."